culture

Wa-ring steals spotlight at Melbourne Fashion Festival Global Indigenous Runway

Phoebe Blogg
Phoebe Blogg Published March 4, 2024 at 5.30pm (AWST)

Taking place at Melbourne Museum as part of PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival (MFF) 2024 Independent program, Sunday night's Global Indigenous Runway (GIR) demonstrated how it is transforming the lives and shaping the future of Indigenous fashion with this year's theme, Ancestral Bloodlines.

While the runway welcomed designers and models from four ASEAN member states of Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia and Laos, - which strived to celebrate the connections between First Nations' Culture and Peoples from Australia and the ASEAN region - it was Australian designer Annette Sax, who stole the spotlight with her brand Wa-ring and its newest collection.

Meaning 'river is kin, river is our family', in the Taungurung language, Wa-ring is a luxurious and sustainable fashion brand, embedded in culture and connection.

"My collection will be featured in Bloodlines, Global Indigenous Runway at the Melbourne Museum. I am most looking forward to reconnecting with the amazing Indigenous models who I met last year during My Spirit My Country, Global Indigenous Runway MFF23 where they wore my silk collection Baban-ik Maruk Yilam (My Mother 's Heart and Home)," Sax told Style Up ahead of Wa-ring's showcase.

Wa-ring showcase on the Global Indigenous Runway. (Image: Angelo Rivera)

When discussing last night's presentation and the brands new Yalok collection, Sax said the inspiration behind this collection narrowed down to an engaging colour palette with symbolic meaning.

"The inspiration behind this collection is a vibrant colour palette of magenta, yellow, pastel pink and pastel yellow. Black garments provide a distinct contrast. I have adapted some of my original designs including the addition of a waterfall sleeve to the wa-ring fit and flare dress and I've transformed my wa-ring waterfall sleeveless vest into a long sleeve dress/jacket worn with a belt," she said.

"I work with our Fair Trade Fashion Team in Kathmandu Nepal, connecting via zooms to discuss design concepts. My Aboriginal designs are screen printed by First Nations Nepalese Artisans, on linen fabric and then sample garments are created. In Narrm I work together with the Spacecraft team to develop my paint pigments. I hand-painted a select number of white garments for this runway."

Further speaking on the talented First Nations artists she collaborated with for this collection, Sax noted it has not been the fruit of one individual artist's efforts but rather the skills of many combined.

"Thrilled to be collaborating with Kamilaroi Artist Priscilla Reid-Loynes who created stunning Adornments made from materials she and her Mum foraged up on their Homelands near Walgett in NSW. Hand-dying linen in urah medicine plant and collecting large wattle seeds links Priscilla and Aunty Patty to their Old People as they keep alive their cultural practices," she said.

"I met Māori Artist Anna Hayes from New Zealand at the Worlds Indigenous Business Forum, Vancouver Canada in 2019. Excited that Anna accepted my invitation to collaborate creating extraordinary Adornments made of natural and hand-dyed plant fibres including Piupiu earrings, necklaces and Kupenga woven bags that represent a fishing net."

(Image: Angelo Rivera)

Striving to engage with the storytelling and gathering rituals of Taungurung land and waterways, Wa-ring stunned audience-goers at last night's Global Indigenous Runway presentation.

"I am so excited to see the growth of First Nations Designers presenting at this year's MFF. There is amazing diversity in our industry and many more opportunities within our industry. I am looking forward to seeing deadly collections in the Emerging Mob In Fashion Runway, especially Solid Ochre by Nathan McGuire. Proud of our Sista Cassie Leatham from Yanggurdi and intrigued to see her collection that will feature on the Thread Lightly x Deloitte runway," Sax said.

When speaking on GIR itself, Sax noted that Global Indigenous Runway Project founder (GIRP) and CEO, Tina Waru has - and continues to be - an inspiring woman who has supported her career in fashion.

"Tina Waru Māori woman and manager of Global Indigenous Management has been a wonderful supporter during my short fashion design career," she said.

Since launching GIRP in 2012, Waru has strived to empower Indigenous young people all whilst providing them with learning opportunities to grow and further their knowledge.

GIRP delivers programs that offer a gateway into the fashion industry and the many creative pursuits it supports for Indigenous young people. It offers pathways to scholarships, internships, and connections with industry professionals.

In 2013, Waru went on to create Global Indigenous Management (GIM). This soon became the world's leading fashion, events and entertainment agency producing three annual global Indigenous fashion runway events. One as part of Melbourne Fashion Week, another for the Melbourne Fashion Festival's independent program, and New Zealand's global Indigenous Fashion Festival.

GIM delivers projects, programs and services across Australia and around the globe to support designers in all facets of design and business - launching a label, running a campaign, creative concept development, retail and more.

(Image: Angelo Rivera)

Thanks to the support and exposure from GIRP and GIM, Sax and her brand have gone from success to success.

"The end of 2023 saw Wa-ring being involved in two major runways which was an amazing experience! I had the privilege to be part of the First Nations Runway 'Ganbu Marra' runway at The Lume, Melbourne Fashion Week. 'Connections' was an incredible backdrop, magnifying our Collections which were styled by creative Anatasia Keshan," she said.

"I loved the interconnection that developed between myself and Aboriginal and Maori Adornment Artisans Priscilla Reid- Loynes (Kamilaroi) and Anna Hayes. Highlighting other women's talents and bringing them along with me on this path has been a joy.

"In that same week my business and life partner Bob Williams represented wa-ring at Jarkarta Fashion Week. This opportunity was supported by The Australian Embassy Jakarta and Government of Victoria. It was surreal watching my Nagambii Collection on the live stream, I felt so proud seeing my designs included in my first International runway. I collaborated with Taungurung Adornment creator Cassie Leatham."

(Image: Angelo Rivera)

As a Taungurung badjur (woman) from the Kulin Nation, culturally inspired fashion design has always come naturally to Sax.

"I have 20 years of experience designing and manufacturing Aboriginal eco toys and 10 years of practical knowledge designing fashion accessories and homewares with our fair trade partners in Nepal," she said.

"Early in my career under the guidance of my Taungurung Elders I learnt the art of collection Ochre and Wattle Sap – skills that have become integral to my craft. In 2021, I joined the Kin Fashion and Design Program where I developed a capsule inspired by my Taungurung Creation Stories and innate connection to my scared waterways."

With her ever-growing interest in design and booming business, Sax is also excited to share the news that wa-ring will be opening its first boutique in the city of Narrm.

"Ecstatic to be moving Wa-ring into a home of her own! A boutique in the city of Narrm, 516 Elizabeth Street, opposite the Queen Victoria Market. My son Iluka Sax-Williams is project managing to transform this space which is part of a new Art Precinct through Creative Spaces and City of Melbourne," she said.

"We will keep everyone updated of our grand opening via our Wa-ring Instagram and Facebook."

With a passionate energy, soon-to-be boutique store and a growing runway presence, Annette Sax is soon to be renowned as the face behind one of the top Indigenous-founded fashion brands.

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National Indigenous Times

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