culture

First Nations fashion brand Wa-ring showcases new Baan Biik collection at Melbourne Fashion Week

Phoebe Blogg -

Artist, designer and storyteller Annette Sax has transformed her First Nations fashion brand - Wa-ring - into much more than just a business operation.

With all of Sax's garments honouring her Elders' cultural knowledge as well as connecting deeply to Taungurung Country and stories, the brand has grown in both popularity and profit.

After presenting at MFW last year on the ganbu marra runway, this week sax returned to MFW and showcase in the Volvo Car Australia runway, presenting her brands new Baan Biik - meaning 'Water Country'- collection in collaboration with Gamiloroi Ularoi Yinnar, an Aboriginal Adornment Creator Priscilla Reid-Loynes.

"The wa-ring collection for MF/W 2024 is called Baan Biik, meaning 'Water Country'. It reflects Taungurung culture with past, present and future designs in community with each other. I have adapted garments from Nagambii and Yalok collections to include design elements that honour waterways of our sacred women's sites on my Homelands," Sax told Style Up.

"Last year I was privileged to have my first experience of presenting at MFW as part of 'ganbu marra' with amazing First Nations Stylist Anastasia Keshan. The Lume was the perfect space to foreground Black Designers, Creatives and Talent within this stunning back drop of Indigenous Art and Storytelling."

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Naomi Rahim)

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Naomi Rahim)

Sax says Baan Biik is both a retrospective of past runways, and also a look to the future of Wa-ring.

"Baan Biik 2024 is a retrospective of past runways, and also a look to the future of Wa-ring. For Baan Biik, MF/W 2024, two wa-ring menswear looks will be added to the design metamorphosis. A new garment will be debuting, an anorak that is in conversation with past designs," she said.

"The other look will be adapting the womenswear one button jacket to a menswear lens. The natural colour palette come from the Ochre that I have collected myself, in a practice that is respectful to my Homelands and Ancestors. Our sons Iluka and Mani are 24 and 21 years old and I designed these new additions with them in my mind, knowing how powerful it is to have the strength of Taungurung Biik on your body.

"These three collections will be presented together at MF/W 2024 as one narrative. This showing will tell the story of Wa-ring to the audience and forge connections with non Aboriginal designers and their communities."

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Naomi Rahim)

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Naomi Rahim)

The designer's new collection also featuring the work of Gamiloroi Ularoi Yinnar, Aboriginal Adornment Creator Priscilla Reid-Loynes.

"Priscilla is a Gamiloroi Ularoi Yinnar, an Aboriginal Adornment Creator has been my Tidda and Aboriginal Education Colleague of over 20 years. Priscilla and I have a long history of developing innovative and inclusive Aboriginal Education Resources," Sax said.

"We both transitioned smoothly into the Fashion space during 2021 when I first approached Priscilla to collaborate with wa-ring as part of MFW 2022. We also collaborated together for Daniel Riley's The Hum a collaboration between the Australian Dance Theatre and The Australian Ballet in 2023.

"We have a special affiliation as River Women and a deep respect for each others creative practice. Priscilla has an incredible love for her Cultural ways of being and knowing and she continually inspires me with her artistic expression that respects the sustainability of her Plant and Bird Kin, while reclaiming her cultural practices and creating Adornments that join with the story of my wa-ring garments."

Loynes shared her thoughts on Instagram about a handful of her recent collaborations with Sax.

"Eurah is dhiiyan for us as Gamilaroi Ularoi people. My Nan Rose, Nan Grace, Aunties and Little Gunii taught us about Eurah. I work with Eurah to crete and inspire my storytelling through adornment making," she said.

"Dying with Eurah. I love that I can create plant dyes materials on my balcony with Cammeraygal Country. This batch was made in 2023 for the Adornments worn by the Australian Ballet and The Australian Dance Theatre performance of The Hum.I have some material left that I've been creating Adornments with for my personal sue and for wa-ring at MFW 24."

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Style Up/ Maria Marouchtchak)

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Naomi Rahim)

When speaking on Wa-ring's growth as a brand and First Nations business, Sax says 2024 has been busy.

"Jakarta Fashion Week was an absolute highlight for Wa-ring with us building on and including global connections in our business plan," she said.

"Alongside founding Wa-ring, I am the Co-Founder and Creative Director of Yarn Strong Sista where I have been championing the representation of Aboriginal culture across the education sector for over 23 years. Both Wa-ring and Yarn Strong Sista's collections are handmade by Nepalese artists in Kathmandu through a longstanding partnership that supports an Indigenous, Fair-Trade supply chain between Nepal and Australia.

"In 2024 we were successful Creative Spaces applicants for a commercial property, new homes for wa-ring and Yarn Strong Sista in the City of Melbourne. This project aims to support the growth of a new Arts Precinct opposite Queen Victoria Market. It has taken 8 months to settle in, building relationships in our neighbourhood. Our First Nations family business have provided volunteer Community Outreach as part of the process of strengthening partnerships in our local area.

"We were ecstatic to learn recently that our lease will be extended significantly and our son Iluka Sax-Williams will Project Manage the establishment of wa-ring boutique, launching in early 2025."

Wa-ring on the Volvo Electric runway at Melbourne Fashion Week. (Image: Naomi Rahim)

"I have facilitated 'wa-ring Entrepreneur Workshops' in collaboration with Eltham Colllege Year 9 Campus, City of Melbourne. The Students are part of 'The Big Boss' Project, they develop a business idea, manufacture the product and sell their product at the Queen Victora Market with all proceeds going to Youth experiencing homelessness," Sax said.

"I share my extensive experience and knowledge as an Aboriginal business owner of multiple businesses including wa-ring a relatively new venture."

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National Indigenous Times