Bula'bula Arts Centre recently collaborated with Black Cat Couture on a new collection showcased on the Country to Couture runway.

Art Centre Manager Mel George and Black Cat Couture designer Marcia Russell, spoke glowingly of the collection, the artists, and how their relationship has creatively developed.

"Marcia has built upon a stronger, more trusting relationship with Yolŋu artists, allowing for bolder ideas and greater risk-taking. Together, we've refined our approach to better honour the artists' voices and talents, resulting in a collection that is both grounded in tradition and completely unique," George told Style Up.

"We had over 20 Ramingining artists involved in either the hand painting or weaving components of our collection. Some were not part of our last collection, so we had new people contributing, which is fantastic.

"This year feels different—there's a deeper sense of connection, trust, and shared vision. Coming into the collaboration with a strong concept - Garkambarryirri (Daybreak) - and a clearer understanding of one another has allowed space for more playful, creative expression. With that foundation, we've been able to take more risks and enjoy the process in new, exciting ways."

"While Bula'Bula Arts is known as a deeply traditional art centre, the silhouettes in this collection are bold, playful, and full of character; pushing boundaries while remaining grounded in the integrity and richness of Yolŋu culture. Marcia is also a self-proclaimed maximalist, so our collection is anything but boring, you won't know what to expect from each look," said George.

"The theme and collection name came from Bula'bula artists. Each outfit incorporates at least one panel that is hand painted by an artist (or a number of artists) consistent with the theme. The collection starts with the concept of dark to light - daybreak and the promise and anticipation of a new day," Russell told Style Up.

"Every piece in our collection stands alone and features at least one exquisitely painted panel. The fabrics on show include high quality silk and linen. There is sparkle, beautiful embellishments, and we have some really special accessories too. The clothes are designed to be worn, but they are completely bespoke and would be impossible to replicate. Three outfits have been contributed to by several artists, and are amazing.

"As a designer/dressmaker the creative challenge has been coming up with clothing designs that incorporate 'panels' suitable to showcase each artist's work. Many of these panels have taken several days to paint; they are exquisite and I've had to consider the time that it takes each artist to create work on a panel. From a design perspective this has added complexities I've not had to consider before.

"I have absolutely loved spending extended time out on country working alongside the artists, them painting and me sewing. I know they have really enjoyed seeing their art evolve into something that can be worn and showcased in a three dimensional way."

On the topic of growth and how the 2025 'Garkambarryirri' Daybreak collection came about, Russell said it was the duo's first collaboration in 2024 which led to a follow-up collection this year.

"Our 2025 collection 'Daybreak' evolved from Bula'bula Arts / Black Cat Couture's first creative collaboration 'Soar' in 2024. In 2023 I was teaching out at Ramingining School in the Families as First Teachers program where I incorporated sewing skills into the capacity/skills development component of the program," she said.

"With the families who attended FAFT, I was regular visitor to the Art Centre. The idea of doing a fashion collection arose, and after finding out we'd been successful in our application for C2C 2024 I travelled regularly back to the community and worked alongside the artists to create 'Soar'.

"As Bula'bula artists hadn't ever seen their artwork incorporated into clothing so we weren't sure if they would be engaged in the project. There was a learning trajectory – the artists weren't familiar with the fabric paints or painting directly on to fabric. However, as soon as they saw the first garment rise like a phoenix from the pile of fabric and vintage sewing patterns, they were enthralled. When we had the opportunity to do our second collection (supported by an NTG grant) all the artists were highly receptive and keen to extend on their first experience."

Russell also expressed how thrilled she was to have the opportunity to take part in the high-fashion event for yet another year.

"The opportunity to collaborate with the incredibly talented First Nations artists at Bula'bula Arts and incorporate their work with my skills and creativity is an absolute privilege. It's been really positive to build upon our first collection experience and be able to be more adventurous – for example some of our garments incorporate the artwork of several artists which has resulted in some really dynamic and exciting pieces," she said.

"Country to Couture has evolved from a grass roots local runway show to a world class fashion event showcasing some of the best designers in the country. The talent on show is amazing - how do I feel to be part of the line up in 2025? Lucky, humbled and incredibly grateful.

"This is actually the sixth time I have done a runway collection in collaboration with an Art Centre. I've worked alongside Injalak Arts twice, Papulankutja Arts, Ikuntji Arts, and Bula'bula Arts now twice. Every year has been a totally amazing creative experience. Working with Bula'bula has been a quite different experience in that the focus has been on successfuly incorporating hand painted panels into the garments, as opposed to creating garments exclusively with screen printed fabrics.

"This year I'm also volunteering back of house with fittings and alterations helping to make sure that the clothes for all collections go out looking their best on the models. Thats been a nice way to share more broadly the skills and experience that I have."

When looking ahead, Russell said she would love to see more collaboration on the Country to Couture runway, as it provides exposure and opportunities for both remote artists, art centres and designers.

"I think Country to Couture is a very valuable platform for First Nations designers from across Australia to showcase their work," she said.

"However, I feel very strongly that most importantly Country to Couture should always be an opportunity for collaborations, like Bula'bula Arts and Black Cat Couture (NT); which enable artists in remote settings to extend their creative experience and share their stories with the world."

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